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Cofee Table
End and Corner Table

The Queen Anne Living Room Tables
A drop-leaf coffee table, end table and corner table in the classic Queen Anne style


Cutting the patterns
While the glue is drying on any pieces of stock that have to be glued to size, lay out the Leg, Transition Block, Skirt and Lower Rail patterns on some plywood template stock. The Leg templates are made in two pieces. This is because the pattern must be drawn on the inside of the Leg on two surfaces.

Use a Scroll Saw or Bandsaw to first cut your template contours, then use your 2-1/4" diameter Shopsmith Drum Sander or your Extra Long Drum Sanding Set, a file and some sandpaper to smooth your templates. Be sure to keep the profiles and corners sharp when sanding.

Once your glued-up pieces are dry, cut them to final size.

Lay out and cut the leg joinery
Always position the sapwood on the inner corner of your Legs and mark the two outside faces. Accurately mark the reference lines around all four sides of each Leg. This line will be very important later on for positioning the Transition Blocks and the templates. Also, lay out an example of each mortise and socket on the top ends and sides of each different Leg. These are your pattern Legs.

Using the Horizontal Boring mode of your MARK V with a 1-1/4" diameter Forstner or Multi-Spur Bit, drill the round sockets in the top ends of all the front End Table and Corner Table Legs.

Switch to the Drill Press and use your Rip Fence with a shop-made fence extension, Flip-Up Rip Fence Stops and a 7/16" Brad Point Drill Bit to cut the mortises in each Leg.

Before gluing the Transition Blocks onto the Legs, take extreme care to match the grain pattern (edge grain and face grain). Align the top of the Transition Block EXACTLY with the reference line and mark each Block position of each Leg. Some exchanges may be required for the optimal matches.

Compound cutting the Legs
Start by tracing the leg patterns onto the insides of each leg. Use a Bandsaw Fence with a stop block to accurately (and consistently) cut the top post of each leg. This will save you a lot of time when the posts are later smoothed.

Using your Bandsaw with a 3/16" Blade, compound cut the Leg profile onto each Leg. Cut out all four Legs following the pattern shown in the plan. Remember to always cut to the OUTSIDE of the pattern line, so you can later use a Drum Sander and file to bring the Legs to their final dimensions.

NOTE: Click here to learn more about making compound cuts on the Bandsaw.


Fig. 1. Assemble an extra-long Drum Sander as shown.

Drum sand the upper insides of the Legs and the underside profiles of the Transition Blocks. Use a 3" to 4" long by 1" diameter Drum Sander for this job. If you don't have such a Sander, you can make a 3" Sander by combining a 1" x 1" and a 1" x 2" Sanding Drum as shown in Fig. 1...or a 4" Sander by combining two 1" x 2" Drum Sanders. Use long carriage bolts and washers to connect the Drums together, then secure the assembly in your Drill Chuck Jaws (See Fig 2.).


Fig. 2. Secure the Sander in your Drill Chuck.


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